So, you’ve been wearing cosmetics for a while and you feel you’re ready to get a little more adventurous with your eye make-up. Or, perhaps you’ve gotten into a rut and just want to re-evaluate what has become a habit and correct some possible mistakes. Whatever your reasons, you are reading this because you want to know more about using your eye shadow more effectively.
It’s easy to misuse a product like eye shadow. I mean, for many women the choice of eye color is based entirely on the outfit they’re wearing. It’s a means by which you can add a touch of blue to your eyelids to reflect the color of your new blouse. And in ages past, eye color cosmetics have given us countless psychedelic and extreme looks designed to BE fashion statements in and of themselves.
But eye shadow can be so much more. Sure, you can choose colors based on the overall look you’re trying to achieve, and coordinate the eye color to your ensemble, but you can also choose shades that both appeal to your sense of style AND bring out the best in your eyes. Eye color can be used not only to add color and sparkle, but can make your natural color appear more vivid and can even minimize slight flaws and difficulties in your facial balance.
Let’s look as some of the ways you can alter the look of the eyes with shadows.
Contouring Eye Color
Some women find that their eyes aren’t as “deep” as others and they lack some of the natural “shading” that comes as a result. Skillful use of eye shadow can correct this (and can be simply used to enhance the contours that already exist on an individual). The trick is to use darker colors along the lines where there would normally be deeper creases and indentations (or in the creases and indentations that exist to deepen their appearance).
This technique involves using three coordinating shades of eye color – one light shade, and dark shade and one that’s somewhere in the middle. Start by applying the middle shade across the upper eyelid and extending it outward toward the outer tip of the eyebrow (if desired). The exact area covered by this shade is up to you, so feel free to adjust it as you desire. Follow this by applying and slim line of shadow along the top edge of the lower lid beneath the eyelashes.
Next, create (or emphasize) a crease between the eyelid and brow area by using the darker shade in that area concentrate on the crease for the heaviest area of application and use a lighter touch as you go up along the brow bone. This should follow the upper line of the eyelid area color application.
Finally, use your lighter color along the brow bone just beneath the eyebrow in order to make this area stand out more prominently. The interplay between the lighter and darker shades will make the brow stand out and the darker area (the crease) recede making the eyes appear deeper. You can also enhance the color of the eyes by using specific color palettes, but we’ll discuss that in a moment.
Close-Set Eyes
For those individuals whose eyes are set close together, eye shadow can be used to create the illusion that the eyes are spaced further apart. This is done by using the shadow colors to darken the outer boundaries of the eye area and thereby make the space between the eyes appear more prominent by comparison. The overall effect is a more balanced appearance in the facial features.
To achieve this effect, we use a three-shade palette of shadow color – one light, one medium level, and one dark. Start with applying the medium-level shade to the upper lid of the eye, expanding the “lid area” slightly toward the outside of the face. Once the upper lid is shaded, use a thin line of eye color along the underside of the lower lid’s lashes and merge it at the outer corner of the eye. Next, apply the darker shade into the crease of the eye and expand that area as you make your way to the outside of the eye. You should also intensify the application to darken the outer edge of the eye.
Finally, use your lighter shade to create a paler ridge along the underside of the brow bone in the eye socket. This can expand as you approach the outer edge of the eye, forming a clean demarcation line, or fading out with subtle blending. The key thing to remember is to keep the darkest shading to the outside of the eyes in this situation.
Wide-Spaced Eyes
When your facial challenge is wide-set eyes, the goal is to minimize the appearance of that space between your eyes. This makes the lighter areas around the features appear more prominent and can give the illusion that the eyes are moved closer together.
Once again, this effect is created using a trio of eye color shades – one light, one dark, and one somewhere in between. As with other application techniques, you should begin by applying your middle shade to the upper lid of the eye, but in this case try to keep the eye color confined to the natural shape of the lid. Follow this by applying a slim line of the eye color to the lower lid, just beneath the line of the lashes.
Once this base color is in place, you can begin the contouring by applying the darker shade to the inside corner of the eye socket. Be careful to avoid moving too far inside beyond the boundary of the eyebrow as you don’t really want to build up color onto the bridge of the nose. This darker shading should be darkest at the inside of the eyes and taper sharply in a curved line to the outer edge of the upper lid.
Use your lightest shade to enhance the brow bone under the eyebrow on the outer corner of the eye. This will make the outside of the eye appear more prominent and help to create the illusion that the eyes have been “shifted” inward.
Choosing Color Palettes
The choice of your color palette for eye shadow is typically based on your general viewpoint as to the purpose of eye shadow. Some people consider eye shadow to be something of a fashion accessory, and will use colors to compliment an outfit or tie a look together. Others look to eye shadow as a means to enhance to overall appearance. The outfit worn certainly influences the hues that are selected, but it isn’t the sole consideration.
When selecting an eye shadow palette, another benefit that can be achieved from the choice of color palettes is the enhancement of the natural eye color. Anyone who’s done any study of color theory understands the principle of “Complementary Colors”. A color is “complemented” by the color directly opposite it on the color wheel. “Complemented” means that the color is “completed” and it refers to the fact that combining these colors (a primary color with a secondary color) represents all the colors of the wheel combined.
Therefore the primary colors of Red, Blue and Yellow are complemented by Green, Orange and Purple. When a color is paired with its complement, they appear sharper and brighter. This can be a benefit when the theory is applied to eye shadow application. Choosing the right color palette for your eye shadow can help you maximize the impact of your eyes.
Blue Eyes are best enhanced by shades of color that are Orange or Peachy in tone. Be sure to adjust your color choices for the shade of blue in your eyes. The darker the blue of your eyes the more rich the corresponding Oranges and Peaches should be.
With Green Eyes, the color best suited is Red. Admittedly, red is a less-common eye shadow color, but by choosing red-toned and “spicy” shades you can make the green appear more vivid and lush.
For Violet Eyes, use soft golden tones and yellows with some shimmer in order to make the eyes appear luminous and to make the color pop.
Finally, the most common eye color is Brown, which is given tremendous amounts of warmth and vibrancy when accentuated with the cool tones of the blue palette.
One of the more unique ways that women accentuate their eyes is through the use of prosthetic eyelashes or false eyelashes. Both terms actually refer to the same thing in basic principle, although the term “prosthetic lashes” is most often in reference to lashes made using natural hair fiber to give an organic appearance.
So, for the sake of simplicity, we’ll just use “False Lashes” as a catch-all and discuss the various types and their uses and differences. There are three main categories of “False Lashes”: Traditional, Individual, and Fashion.
Traditional False Lashes:
Traditional False Lashes are usually synthetic (and sometimes natural) fiber lashes that are affixed to a thin strip to keep them together. The exact construction of the false lashes varies depending on the quality and price of the lashes. You may find some false lashes that are made using small rectangles of glossy nylon that are curved and then cut into strips, leaving a thin portion on one end to hold the lashes together. When the intact end of the lashes is bent to follow the curve of the eyelid, the fronds flare outward and create the look of long, shiny lashes.
Higher quality false lashes may have separate fiber “hairs” attached to a strip or weft like a miniscule and thin wig for the eyelids. The finest quality and most expensive lashes are usually made of human hair and are attached to a transparent weft to make them appear natural when affixed to the eyelid.
Traditional false lashes are affixed to the lids of the eye using a small amount of adhesive. The adhesive is generally very liquid and must be allowed to set and become tacky before it can be placed on the lid. Placement can be tricky and the adhesive must be allowed to fully dry before you can do any additional styling and manipulation.
Individual False Lashes:
Individual False Lashes are made using two to three “lashes” in a cluster that are then affixed to the base of the natural lashes with a small dot of adhesive. These are usually natural-looking fibers and are versatile in their use. You can use them to fill-out sparse lashes, or enhance parts of the lash area as desired. It all depends on how many lashes you add to the look.
Like traditional false lashes, individual lashes are affixed using adhesive, which is dabbed onto the end of the lashes, allowed to set and is then connected to the base of the natural lashes on the eyelids. The ability to create very natural looking lashes when using this type of false lash makes them a favorite among professional make-up artists.
Fashion (False) Lashes:
Fashion Lashes are often just a different variety of the traditional or individual style of false lash. The look may be somewhat “normal” in that is resembles a lash shape, except that the color may be vivid pink, or electric blue, even white. There are fashion lashes that are metallic foil and sparkle, or which have rhinestones affixed to them at various points along the shafts, or on the tips.
The key thing about fashion lashes is that they are used to create a fantasy, or artistic look. I’ve seen make-up looks that use feathers to adorn the lashes to give the impression of a bird or otherwise exotic creature. I’ve even seen the eye(s) transformed into a flower, through the use of flower petals around the eye as false lashes. With Fashion Lashes, the limit is your imagination.
While any cosmetic product can be prone to misuse if an individual is ill-informed, blusher is often the most obviously misused. You can probably call to memory lots of instances where women you’ve met have appeared overly made-up or clownish because of large swaths of color on their cheeks. Or sometimes, it’s colorful splashes just below the eyes and other times in curves that touch the corners of the mouth. This is largely due to two factors: the confusion between the purposes of blusher and contouring make-up, and improper color choices for these products.
The category of cosmetics commonly referred to as blusher often includes contouring make-up in addition to the traditional cheek color. While these products are used in the same areas of the face and are applied in the same manner, it would be helpful to think of them as separate products. They do serve different purposes after all.
Differentiating Blusher from Contour
True blusher is intended to help women recreate the light flush of color on the cheeks that occurs naturally in young women. This effect has been desirable for centuries and has its origins in the idea that the blush response is a sign of youth and innocence. Therefore, a woman whose cheeks were flushed with color would be young – and virginal – and more appealing to the opposite sex. It’s a fairly misogynistic ideal, and has been downplayed over the decades since the emergence of women’s empowerment movements. Today, it is seen typically as just another facet of cosmetics.
Its often-confused counterpart is contour make-up. The primary difference in the appearance of contouring make-up versus blusher is in the color of each. While blusher is colorful – usually pinkish, reddish, or peachy in tone – contouring make-up is neutral-toned and intended to blend in with the foundation base of cosmetic application. A good contouring make-up will be just slightly darker than the foundation base used.
This is because the purpose for contouring make-up is to adapt the appearance of the face’s shape by adding shading and minimizing the appearance of undesired traits. Contouring make-up can be used to minimize double chins, make the jaws appear more defined, give definition to the cheekbones, slim the appearance of the nose, and even minimize the prominence of the forehead.
Using Blusher versus Contour
Most blusher and contour products come as compressed powder and are applied using a brush. This provides excellent control in application and a soft-edged finish. The key to proper usage, however, rests in remembering the purpose for the products.
Let’s start with blusher. Blusher should be applied across the tops of the cheeks, primarily. To apply blusher, simply smile at yourself in a mirror and lightly brush the blusher powder across the “apples” of your cheeks to give them a hint of color. Be careful to keep this color effect subtle, especially in the daytime. You can always go for a heavier application at night (or use a darker shade of color) but in the brighter, broad-spectrum light make-up can be more-easily seen, which isn’t what you want.
The goal is to create a soft “glow” of color, as though you’ve shone a colored light onto the skin. Or, specifically, to create the look you would naturally have if the blood had rushed to your cheeks. In decades past, young women who weren’t allowed to “paint their faces” would often pinch their cheeks or lightly slap themselves to redden their faces a touch and give the blushed impression.
Contouring make-up is different in spite of the fact that it looks so similar to blusher. Contouring make-up is typically available in neutral shades and looks a good deal like pressed-powder foundation. In fact, some pressed-powder foundation (pancake make-up) can be used in place of contour make-up is you are intending to cover larger areas, or if you want to make matching the tone of your cosmetics easier. (You simply purchase your base foundation color and then select a second in a shade or two darker for contouring.)
Apply the contouring make-up in any area you wish to make appear recessed. Because the color is darker than the foundation, the result is that the area will look farther back from the foreground. Typical areas where contouring make-up is used is the area below the chin (the upper neck, sometimes called “the wattle”) where aging and weight can result in looser, or sagging skin, below the cheeks to make the face look slimmer, or along the sides of the forehead to make the forehead appear narrower or the eyes appear broader.
Just remember that you don’t want the effect to appear obvious. As with all cosmetics, proper application means that the individual appears not to be wearing make-up at all. You can use a heavier application at night, but don’t use a lot of make-up and expect a natural look.
When it comes to enhancing the eyes through the use of cosmetics, you really can’t overlook the importance of mascara and eyeliner. These two simple cosmetics provide so much impact on the overall look of the face that trying to make a go of it without them is often a losing battle. Let’s be honest, in the most pared-down, minimalist looks, the three “must-have” items are generally tinted moisturizer, mascara and lipstick, and personally, I know more women who are willing to part with their moisturizer and lipstick than are willing to part with mascara. Since the eyes are the windows of the soul (poetically speaking) and are a key focus in the basics of facial recognition (scientifically speaking) how they are presented is extremely important. These are features that come with their own enhancement elements (lashes) and are centered in a nesting of musculature that makes them almost infinitely expressive. Because of this, it’s important to use care when enhancing them with cosmetics. Over-application can really hinder the desired result. So, let’s look at these two eye-enhancing cosmetics and at the best uses of them to make the eyes look their best: Mascara: With mascara you find products that offer a surprisingly wide range of promises. Originally, mascaras were little more than temporary color for the lashes. They darkened the lashes (to black) making them stand out more and subsequently defining the eyes. However, today’s mascaras are designed to help maximize the lashes and to combat the common complaints many women have about their lashes. There are mascaras that thicken each lash (for those women who feel their lashes are too fine, or are too sparse), and there are mascaras that add length for those who feel their lashes are too short. There are also mascaras that are not the traditional “black” or “dark brown” these days. There have been “fashion colored” mascaras for some time which have been popular off and on in certain circles and eras. These have ranged from white mascaras to the shades that match or coordinate with various eye shadow shades in “fashion colors”. While not necessarily appropriate for the supermarket or the PTA, these looks made an impact both for the wearers specifically and in general in the eras in which they were worn. Today we have colored mascaras designed to enhance the eye color of the individual whether it’s blue, green, aqua or brown. This is done by including metallic tones in the color of the mascara which refracts colors of light to brighten and compliment the color of the iris (the colored portion of the eye). The specific metallic tone depends on the color the mascara is meant to enhance, so you have to choose the formula for your eye color, but these choices are simple and clearly outlined.
Choosing Mascara for Maximum Impact: When it comes to choosing your mascara and applying it for maximum effect there are some things to consider: For instance, what is your most significant need from mascara? Are you someone whose lashes are long and lush, but blonde and therefore nearly translucent? Do you think your lashes are too thin or sparse? Do you wish your lashes were longer and brushed against your brows and cheeks when you batted them? The improvement you wish to create in the lashes determines the specific product you are going to choose. We won’t go into specific brands and their respective formulas here, both because we generally tend to avoid brand/product endorsement, and because there are just too many different brands out there. Suffice it to say that you should make your choices based on your specific needs and not simply select a brand/product at random. If your eyes are ringed with a lush fringe of thick, stubby lashes, you don’t really want mascara whose primary purpose is to thicken the lash. Instead, you want one that will help to add length and will extend the lashes. And if you have long lashes, but feel that they’re too sparse or finely-textured (thin), a thickening mascara will give you the improvement you seek.
Simply put, you want the right tool for the job, and once you’ve selected the mascara that is appropriate to what you need, it becomes time to look at the ways you can apply mascara for maximum impact. {NOTE: There’s no rule that says you have to restrict yourself to only ONE kind of mascara. In many cases there are looks that can be created by using a “lengthening” mascara followed by a thickening mascara to create a DRAMATIC change in the look of your eyes.} However, first let’s look at mascara’s oft-forgotten companion, eyeliner. Eyeliner: This is a cosmetic that many women fear, and as a result they ignore the benefits that it can provide in creating a dramatic look in the eyes. Just the thought of trying to “draw” lines so close to their eyeball can make some women panic and therefore results in unsuccessful application attempts. However, when applied properly, eyeliner can not only be dramatic, but can provide very subtle enhancement. The way to master eyeliner is simple: Practice. Get a basic eye pencil and some make-up remover, then practice applying and removing the eyeliner from your eyes. Soon enough, you’ll be ready to expand your eyeliner types and will be comfortable experimenting with a number of looks. Eyeliner comes in two forms typically – liquid and pencil/crayon type. The liquid formula can have an applicator wand with a tapered tip or be a pen-style applicator with a reservoir and flexible nib. Pencil or crayon style eyeliners are generally wax-based and either encased in wood and sharpened as a pencil would be, or housed in a dispenser tube that allows an adjustable amount to be extended from the tip of the apparatus – similar to a lipstick tube, but usually the size of a small pen. Typically, the pencil-type eyeliners are more stable in varied climates (heat, humidity, rainy weather) but often need more effort for a bold or heavy line. On the other hand, while liquid-type eyeliners will offer clean, bold lines, they can be easily smudged, and may be prone to run. Be sure if you choose a liquid-liner that you select a moisture-resistant or water-proof formula.
Advanced Application Techniques: Okay, you’ve got your mascara of choice and are ready to make a change; the same with your eyeliner. So let’s look at a couple of application techniques that are meant to enhance the look of the eyes. Here’s a look at common issues that proper mascara and eyeliner application techniques can help with. For Pale Lashes: Pale lashes are a common complaint among individuals with fair skin and lighter colored hair. Often blondes and some redheads will note that their eyelashes appear lighter in color than that of their darker-haired friends. Since lashes are hair and are created by the body in the same ways as other hair fibers, they will grow according to their genetic coding and be whatever color the DNA indicates they should be. Of course, knowing that it’s not abnormal doesn’t make it any easier to accept. Fortunately, this is where mascara and eyeliner can come in most handily. Obviously, mascara works to add color to the pale lashes. Depending on secondary needs, you can choose a thickening or lengthening mascara as well to add dimension or length as desired. Eyeliner serves the purpose of helping define the shape of the eye and also helps to make the lashes appear thicker by making them appear denser at the base of the lash.
For Thin Lashes For some women the complaint is simply that the eyelashes seem to be “thin” – either sparse or just skinny when looked at individually. The result is that they don’t define the eyes very well. Again, this is usually a matter of genetics, but if you develop loss of lashes in spots or if the lashes seem to fall out to a significant degree, you should consult with your doctor to make sure it’s not something to be concerned over. Dealing with thin lashes using mascara is a matter of selecting a mascara that is designed to thicken (add to the diameter) of the lash. By thickening the diameter of each individual lash, such mascara makes the lashes appear thicker as a whole and there appears to be more lashes, where they might otherwise appear sparse. Eyeliner can further enhance the appearance of the lashes by using a thick line at the base of the lashes in order to give the illusion that the lashes are denser at the base. For Short Lashes It may seem that women who have eyelashes that they consider to be “short” have little recourse to resolve the issue (unless they want to learn to use false eyelashes and similar prosthetics). These women look with envy on their friends who seem to have long, sinewy, spider-like lashes that curl outward and brush seductively along the brow bone and cheeks, while their own lashes barely serve as more than a dense fringe on the edges of the eyelid. However, today’s cosmetic sciences have brought forth many minor miracles in mascara application. One of these minor miracles is mascara that will extend the length of the lashes beyond their normal boundaries. This is achieved using a substance that adheres to the existing lash and builds outward along the length to create a lash extension that is purely cosmetic, and easily washes away. Just be sure you read the packages carefully when selecting these types of mascara that may claim to be “waterproof”. These may require special “removers” or else may only be “water-resistant” and may not stand up to extraordinary circumstances. Extra Tips for Other Circumstances: Small Eyes Mascara, by its very nature helps to make the eyes appear larger, yet careful consideration when applying eyeliner can help make the eyes appear larger still. The key is to apply a thin line of eyeliner as close to the lash line as possible, preserving the edge of the lid unpainted. In most cases this is best accomplished by applying the eyeliner on top of the eyelashes. Large Eyes Large eyes, or at least eyes that seem too large and prominent can be minimized by using a medium line of eyeliner along the edge of the lid in order to “enclose” the eye. Be careful not to paint the eyeliner onto your eyeball, and be sure to use hypoallergenic cosmetics to minimize the risk of allergic reactions and sensitivities.
Close Eyes Close-set eyes are helped by using the mascara and eyeliner in much the same way as you do your eye shadow – by creating a shaded zone on the outside of the eyes to make them appear to “shift slightly” away from the middle of the face. This is done by applying the mascara a little more heavily to the outer corners of the eyes and by creating a tapered line with eyeliner that is thickest at the outside corners and tapers to a fine line toward the inside of the eye. Wide Eyes For Wide-set eyes, the principles described in the segment above for close-set eyes are simply reversed as far as direction is concerned. Apply your mascara more heavily on the lashes at the inner corners of the eye and make sure your eyeliner tapers toward the outside corners of the eyes. These tips in combination with the shading of eye shadow application, can dramatically rebalance the appearance of the eyes’ position. On a final note, it is EXTREMELY important that you remember NEVER to share your mascara or eyeliner cosmetics with another individual. Even in your own household this kind of cross-contamination is not a good idea. The applicators for these products often come in contact with bodily fluids that can carry germs and bacteria and can transmit them from one person to another. In some cases, an infection spread from one individual can be worse in the person to whom it was transmitted than in the original host. Mascara and eyeliner are two cosmetics it’s OK to be stingy with. “Tell them where you bought it, but make them buy their own.”
Make-up application has inherent tendencies toward error based on the make-up type. Because of this, there are a wide range of common make-up mistakes. These mistakes can usually be addressed by explaining some basic principles and by understanding the purpose behind the cosmetics. So let’s have a look at the various make-up types, the common mistakes made with these make-up types, and the way to correct these mistakes:
Foundation:
Foundation make-up is designed to give the user a smooth, even canvas for the rest of the cosmetics to be used. Foundation is meant to even discrepancies in skin tone and minimize the appearance of minor flaws, providing an even, clear complexion. COMMON MISTAKE: A common mistake women make when using foundation is in choosing the wrong shade for their actual skin tone. This leads to the foundation looking artificial, because it contrasts with the skin’s actual color. Solution: Foundation should blend smoothly with the overall tone of the skin. Once applied, the foundation should be near-invisible. This is true whether you use a cream, liquid or powder formula foundation. Foundation is never intended to provide you with “color”. You don’t want a foundation to make you look like you’ve been in the sun. There are many other products designed for this purpose which are intended to provide a more natural-looking result. COMMON MISTAKE: Another common mistake women make with foundation is in application. Many women apply their foundation to the face only, stopping along the curve of the chin and at the edge of the jaw line. This often leads to obvious demarcation between the areas with and without make-up. If the proper shade is us chosen, the effect is less pronounced, but can still be seen by the shift in the texture of the skin. Solution: Blend your foundation to all the parts of the face that are exposed. Pay particular attention to the neck area since the neck is often slightly lighter in complexion than the face and the discrepancy can be made more pronounced without the blending effect. It is also not out of the question to extend the blending of some foundation into the cleavage if you are wearing a low-cut garment. Furthermore, if you are planning to wear your hair in an up-style, you should also pay attention to the ears and consider blending the foundation onto them as well. Nothing is quite as distracting – or detracting from a look – as having the ears shining too pale, in comparison with the rest of the face.
Blush and Contouring:
Cheek color – commonly called blush – and contouring make-up are used to enhance the shape, contours and planes of the face. The blush is used to give the cheeks a colored-glow to mimic the natural blush response. (This is where it gets its name.) Since blushing is indicative of innocence and youth, women whose cheeks were pinked by blushing were considered to be youthful and more desirable. Contouring make-up differs from blush in that the colors used are neutral and intended to create shading effects to manipulate the planes and contours of the face.
COMMON MISTAKES: The most common mistake made when using blush or contouring make-up is over-use. Too often, women over-apply their cheek color or try to affect too-much change using a contouring make-up. The end result is a look that can be characterized as “unnaturally overdone” at best, and “clownish” in the worst cases. Solution: “Less is more.” This is never truer than when considering the use of blush and contouring make-up. The key is to use subtle application in either case. A light shading will always appear more natural and be less heavy on the skin.
Lips:
Lip color is perhaps the most commonly used cosmetic, and while in many senses it is idiot-proof, there are still mistakes that are made. One purpose for lip color is to mimic the look of arousal. When excited, the increased blood flow causes the soft tissues of the lips to darken. The look is instinctively perceived as appealing to the opposite sex, and therefore is sought after. Another purpose for lip make-up comes from the desire to mimic the smooth, plumped look of youthful lips. To this end, lip color has been infused with moisturizers and given high-gloss finishes. (And that doesn’t even take into account the number of lip gloss products marketed only for the purpose of giving shine to the lips.) COMMON MISTAKES: With lip color, one common mistake is choosing the wrong shade for the situation or the individual wearing the color. This can mean that the color is too bold or dark for a setting – such as wearing dark, wine colored lipstick to an afternoon garden party – or simply too dark for an individual – causing the skin to appear pale as a result. Solution: It’s important to remember that we each have colors that suit our skin tones and coloring. When choosing lip color, we want to select colors that will flatter and create the desired illusion of arousal, but not one so dark as to make the face appear pallid. In general, you should always choose softer, paler colors for daytime wear, and reserve the dramatic looks for evening. Furthermore, always use caution when wearing blue-toned shades as these can lend a cyanotic appearance to the skin.
Eye Make-Up:
Because there are a minimum of three separate cosmetics commonly used to adorn the eye (not counting the eyebrow pencil) there is often room for error in many ways. The goal of eye make-up – in the case of eye color – is to enhance the color of the eye itself and its shape – and in the case of mascara and eyeliner – to define the shape of the eye and make the eye appear more open and brighter. COMMON MISTAKE (eye color): All too often, women get sucked into make-up trends and apply their eye color using techniques that are wholly unsuited to their needs. The result is a look that is neither flattering nor functional.
Solution: Avoid trends and ignore the looks you see in most fashion magazines and on runway models. These are looks that are rarely intended for wear in the real world. Learn basic application techniques that flatter your eyes and build on them. Always remember that it’s much easier to add more than to take it away. COMMON MISTAKE (eyeliner): With eyeliner, the most common mistake is in over-use. Some women get so accustomed to wearing eyeliner that they slowly add more and more until they develop the dreaded “raccoon eye” look. Unfortunately, the way this tends to develop means that the women who have the problem cannot recognize it. Solution: The best way to prevent overuse of eyeliner is to find a dependable friend to give you a “reality check”. This is particularly true if you feel you are unable to make the judgment on your own. Of course, it also necessitates that the friend not suffer from eyeliner addiction as well. Daytime application should always be lighter than evening wear, including the use of softer shades of eyeliner when possible. Evening application should be moderate. COMMON MISTAKE (mascara): With mascara, the most common mistake is failing to recognize that there are different shades for different circumstances. Many women simply choose a favored brand of mascara in black and think that is sufficient. The result is that often the look is too severe for more casual settings. Solution: You should choose at least two mascara shades for your make-up kit. One should be a lighter shade – either clear gel mascara or a soft brown – for daytime wear. The other can be a darker color for evening use and more formal occasions.
It’s a safe bet that everyone knows a woman who uses her make-up incorrectly. Even those who know nothing about make-up application can recognize when make-up is improperly applied. Sometimes it’s too heavily applied, or perhaps it’s simply used improperly. When I say “improperly” I mean that they seem to use it in order to manufacture a look rather than enhance the natural appearance of the face. This is the most common mistake made by women as it regards their make-up. When I was in High School, I knew a very sweet girl. I’ll call her “Emily”. Emily always seemed to wear a LOT of make-up. I never realized exactly how much she actually used until we attended a sleep-away training camp for our high school choir. As underclassmen, we underwent hazing rituals, which for the girls included a complete ban on cosmetics and hair styling products. Upon hearing this, Emily, became upset and begged – in vain – to be granted an exception.
When she came to the campus cafeteria for breakfast on the first day of camp, she his herself away in a distant corner and kept her face to the wall. She needn’t have bothered. As unbelievable as it sounds, NO ONE recognized her (except her dorm-mate who had witnessed the transformation in reverse the night before). It was such a dramatic difference that everyone asked her about it. Obviously, this revealed that Emily suffered from a common issue for many women: poor self-image. You see, at seventeen, Emily was convinced that she was unattractive. The truth of the matter is that she was a natural beauty. She’d been plain in her pre-teen and early teen years, had worn braces, and glasses and suffered from very mild acne (one or two blemishes at most). She’d been a late developer, which added to her sense of unattractiveness. To compensate, she’d begun using make-up at an early age and had become very adept at creating the look she felt was pretty. I just thought it was a shame that a seventeen-year-old would feel that she had to manufacture a look to be attractive. I learned later that her mother had much the same attitude about make-up and that she’d offered to come and get Emily from camp the first night when Emily called her to say that she wouldn’t be allowed to have her cosmetics. Fortunately, Emily chose to stay, and for a few days at least, she was able to get some positive feedback about her natural looks. Once the cosmetic restriction was lifted, Emily returned to her comfortable look, and we all saw the face she wanted us to see again. I hope that someone managed to finally impress upon her that she didn’t need so much make-up, but I will probably never know. I do remember that all of our attempts (those made by myself and her other friends) to reassure her that she didn’t need much make-up were met with complete skepticism. Contrary to what Emily and many other women in the world believe, make-up is meant to enhance the natural beauty of the face. The goal is to minimize features that are imbalanced or out of proportion, to obscure traits that are undesirable and to enhance and emphasize the strongest positive features of the face. Nevertheless, many women instead think in terms of “painting the face” as opposed to enhancing the features, and the results are predictable. Many women need help in keeping the expectations realistic when it comes to make-up. To that end, let’s look at some common areas where unrealistic expectations seem prevalent:
• It is realistic to apply foundation in order to even out variation in skin tone. It is NOT realistic to expect a natural-looking result if you are attempting to hide skin disorders or severe discolorations. You can minimize the appearance of freckles, and in some cases, blend them away completely, but for dark, high- contrast pigment marks, most foundations will only go so far and remain natural-looking. • In the case of acne blemishes, particularly severe eruptions, attempting to hide them using foundation is definitely unrealistic, and often makes the condition worse. • It is realistic to use blusher and contouring make-up in order to emphasize the cheekbones or to minimize the appearance of unflattering areas of the face. It is NOT realistic to attempt to use blusher or contouring make-up to completely change the shape of the face. You will not get a natural-looking effect if you try to make a round face look narrow by shading the sides excessively. • Eye make-up is especially vulnerable to unrealistic expectations. It is realistic to use eye make-up to enhance eye color, and to make them appear brighter and more open. It is NOT realistic to expect a natural-looking result when you use excessive eye make-up, including liner, shadow and mascara in dark shades, particularly in daylight. • Obviously, the rules for make-up differ from day to night. Heavier make-up applications are acceptable in the evening when the ambient light tends to be darker and the effects of cosmetics is less visible, but even in night-time application you can easily go too far if you aren’t careful. Of course, there are other problem areas in make-up application, but you get the idea. One simple truism that applies to the subject of make-up application is “less is more”. You should always try to remember to use softer colors in daytime and save richer colors for evening wear. You should also know that while you can always easily add more make-up, removing an over-abundant application often requires starting from square one. If you keep the focus of your efforts on simply enhancing your appearance, you will usually find that your results are both more flattering and more natural-looking.
Foundation make-up was developed to create a smooth, even canvas upon which other cosmetics could be applied and give the face an enhanced appearance. Since many women quote their problems as being that their skin is often uneven in tone and has blemishes or spots of varying types, foundation has become a staple in most cosmetic kits. Foundation can even out skin tone, soften the appearance of lines and wrinkles, minimize the appearance of age spots and freckles and can even protect from sun damage when the right formula is used. Foundation comes in a variety of forms these days: Liquid, Cream, and Powder – as well as combinations of the three. The various manufacturers of cosmetics try to stay abreast of changing trends and provide options for varying skin types and needs. There are foundations formulated to combat oily skin, to moisturize dry skin, and to be gentle with sensitive skin. There are even foundation formulas to help treat and prevent breakouts in acne-prone skin. Foundation typically offers two types of finish: dewy and matte. The dewy finish is generally for those dry skin types to provide a soft glow to the skin, making it look youthful and healthy. Matte finish is typically used for those who have the common signs of aging – those fine lines and wrinkles that form around the eyes and mouth. It softens the look of these lines and helps to create a younger-looking appearance.
Skin Tone and Matching
The most difficult part of selecting foundations is often matching the skin tone with the tone of foundation. Too often, women end up selecting a foundation that is too light or too dark for their actual skin tone. This results in a noticeable transition from make-up to bare skin where the cosmetic ends. Some blending can help camouflage this effect, but it is better to avoid the discrepancy from the start. To get a sense of the skin tones we’re talking about let’s discuss the various skin tone categories and what makes them unique: Fair Skin: Fair skin is generally characterized by the paleness of the skin and its sensitivity to the sun. Fair skin is susceptible to freckling and other sun-exposure effects and is often. In color tone it is generally warm and often pinkish. It is obvious when the individual blushes. Famous fair-skinned individuals include Audrey Hepburn and Claudia Schiffer. Ivory Skin: Ivory skin tone is often very similar to Fair skin in appearance, but Ivory skin tones tend to be cooler. They are often as sun-sensitive as fair-skinned individuals, but not always. Ivory skinned individuals also often have a translucent quality to the skin. Famous ivory-skinned individuals include Glenn Close and David Hyde-Pierce. Olive Skin: Olive skin is typically warm in tone and darker than either fair or ivory skin. Olive skin tones generally respond to sun exposure by tanning, which deepens the color of the skin. The result is a bronzer shade of the Olive complexion. Famous olive-skinned individuals include Vin Deisel and Eva Longoria.
Dark Skin: Dark skin is a category that has perhaps the broadest range of shades included within it. It can range from a light nutty, brown to a near-black ebony shade. In the cases of dark skin types, common skin problems can take on a different appearance. Dry skin can cause the skin to look ashen, while oily skin and breakouts look like darkened bumps, rather than redness.
Dealing with Skin Issues
When matching your foundation to your skin type, your goal is for the foundation to “disappear” on the skin, leaving no obvious signs of application. The foundation should give an even result in the appearance of the skin, blending and balancing any unevenness in the shades of the skin. For individuals who have oily skin, who have wrinkles or large, obvious pores, then a matte finish foundation is ideal. Look for foundations that offer a powdery finish, or a mineral powder cosmetic. The flat finish offered by these products helps to minimize the appearance of fine lines and pores by softening the overall appearance of the face and features. For those individuals who have dry skin, choose foundation with moisturizers which will help the skin keep the healthy glow and youthful texture while combating the dryness. Sometimes there are individuals whose skin tone is between the available shade of foundation. If you are one of those people, do not hesitate to purchase the two closest shades (one on either side of your color) and blend them to make the correct shade for you. It will cost you twice as much as a single package of foundation, but it will last you twice as long as well.
Concealer
In the subset of foundation products are what are called concealers. These cosmetics are used to completely cover up marks, scars and blemishes that are otherwise not obscured by the foundation cosmetic. Concealers come in a range of shades – generally lighter than foundations - and are meant to be applied to the skin before foundation cosmetics. The foundation is then able to cover the undesired element and give a more even coverage and appearance.
