So, you’ve been wearing cosmetics for a while and you feel you’re ready to get a little more adventurous with your eye make-up. Or, perhaps you’ve gotten into a rut and just want to re-evaluate what has become a habit and correct some possible mistakes. Whatever your reasons, you are reading this because you want to know more about using your eye shadow more effectively.
It’s easy to misuse a product like eye shadow. I mean, for many women the choice of eye color is based entirely on the outfit they’re wearing. It’s a means by which you can add a touch of blue to your eyelids to reflect the color of your new blouse. And in ages past, eye color cosmetics have given us countless psychedelic and extreme looks designed to BE fashion statements in and of themselves.
But eye shadow can be so much more. Sure, you can choose colors based on the overall look you’re trying to achieve, and coordinate the eye color to your ensemble, but you can also choose shades that both appeal to your sense of style AND bring out the best in your eyes. Eye color can be used not only to add color and sparkle, but can make your natural color appear more vivid and can even minimize slight flaws and difficulties in your facial balance.
Let’s look as some of the ways you can alter the look of the eyes with shadows.
Contouring Eye Color
Some women find that their eyes aren’t as “deep” as others and they lack some of the natural “shading” that comes as a result. Skillful use of eye shadow can correct this (and can be simply used to enhance the contours that already exist on an individual). The trick is to use darker colors along the lines where there would normally be deeper creases and indentations (or in the creases and indentations that exist to deepen their appearance).
This technique involves using three coordinating shades of eye color – one light shade, and dark shade and one that’s somewhere in the middle. Start by applying the middle shade across the upper eyelid and extending it outward toward the outer tip of the eyebrow (if desired). The exact area covered by this shade is up to you, so feel free to adjust it as you desire. Follow this by applying and slim line of shadow along the top edge of the lower lid beneath the eyelashes.
Next, create (or emphasize) a crease between the eyelid and brow area by using the darker shade in that area concentrate on the crease for the heaviest area of application and use a lighter touch as you go up along the brow bone. This should follow the upper line of the eyelid area color application.
Finally, use your lighter color along the brow bone just beneath the eyebrow in order to make this area stand out more prominently. The interplay between the lighter and darker shades will make the brow stand out and the darker area (the crease) recede making the eyes appear deeper. You can also enhance the color of the eyes by using specific color palettes, but we’ll discuss that in a moment.
Close-Set Eyes
For those individuals whose eyes are set close together, eye shadow can be used to create the illusion that the eyes are spaced further apart. This is done by using the shadow colors to darken the outer boundaries of the eye area and thereby make the space between the eyes appear more prominent by comparison. The overall effect is a more balanced appearance in the facial features.
To achieve this effect, we use a three-shade palette of shadow color – one light, one medium level, and one dark. Start with applying the medium-level shade to the upper lid of the eye, expanding the “lid area” slightly toward the outside of the face. Once the upper lid is shaded, use a thin line of eye color along the underside of the lower lid’s lashes and merge it at the outer corner of the eye. Next, apply the darker shade into the crease of the eye and expand that area as you make your way to the outside of the eye. You should also intensify the application to darken the outer edge of the eye.
Finally, use your lighter shade to create a paler ridge along the underside of the brow bone in the eye socket. This can expand as you approach the outer edge of the eye, forming a clean demarcation line, or fading out with subtle blending. The key thing to remember is to keep the darkest shading to the outside of the eyes in this situation.
Wide-Spaced Eyes
When your facial challenge is wide-set eyes, the goal is to minimize the appearance of that space between your eyes. This makes the lighter areas around the features appear more prominent and can give the illusion that the eyes are moved closer together.
Once again, this effect is created using a trio of eye color shades – one light, one dark, and one somewhere in between. As with other application techniques, you should begin by applying your middle shade to the upper lid of the eye, but in this case try to keep the eye color confined to the natural shape of the lid. Follow this by applying a slim line of the eye color to the lower lid, just beneath the line of the lashes.
Once this base color is in place, you can begin the contouring by applying the darker shade to the inside corner of the eye socket. Be careful to avoid moving too far inside beyond the boundary of the eyebrow as you don’t really want to build up color onto the bridge of the nose. This darker shading should be darkest at the inside of the eyes and taper sharply in a curved line to the outer edge of the upper lid.
Use your lightest shade to enhance the brow bone under the eyebrow on the outer corner of the eye. This will make the outside of the eye appear more prominent and help to create the illusion that the eyes have been “shifted” inward.
Choosing Color Palettes
The choice of your color palette for eye shadow is typically based on your general viewpoint as to the purpose of eye shadow. Some people consider eye shadow to be something of a fashion accessory, and will use colors to compliment an outfit or tie a look together. Others look to eye shadow as a means to enhance to overall appearance. The outfit worn certainly influences the hues that are selected, but it isn’t the sole consideration.
When selecting an eye shadow palette, another benefit that can be achieved from the choice of color palettes is the enhancement of the natural eye color. Anyone who’s done any study of color theory understands the principle of “Complementary Colors”. A color is “complemented” by the color directly opposite it on the color wheel. “Complemented” means that the color is “completed” and it refers to the fact that combining these colors (a primary color with a secondary color) represents all the colors of the wheel combined.
Therefore the primary colors of Red, Blue and Yellow are complemented by Green, Orange and Purple. When a color is paired with its complement, they appear sharper and brighter. This can be a benefit when the theory is applied to eye shadow application. Choosing the right color palette for your eye shadow can help you maximize the impact of your eyes.
Blue Eyes are best enhanced by shades of color that are Orange or Peachy in tone. Be sure to adjust your color choices for the shade of blue in your eyes. The darker the blue of your eyes the more rich the corresponding Oranges and Peaches should be.
With Green Eyes, the color best suited is Red. Admittedly, red is a less-common eye shadow color, but by choosing red-toned and “spicy” shades you can make the green appear more vivid and lush.
For Violet Eyes, use soft golden tones and yellows with some shimmer in order to make the eyes appear luminous and to make the color pop.
Finally, the most common eye color is Brown, which is given tremendous amounts of warmth and vibrancy when accentuated with the cool tones of the blue palette.
It’s time to talk about the single-most overlooked cosmetic product/technique by the average woman: contouring make-up. With the right combination of highlighting and lowlighting shades, you can adjust the look of your features in myriad ways. You can make your nose appear slimmer, your eyes deeper and your jawline softer. You can soften the look of jowls and hide the wattle beneath an aging chin. All it takes is a little practice, some patience and just the right colors for your skin type.
I’m going to break with tradition here and tell you now that there is NO need to go out and purchase make-up specifically labeled as contouring make-up. In fact, some makers are getting away from the “specifically purposed” cosmetic products and appealing to the modern shoppers’ sensibilities by marketing the products that are basically the same as multi-purpose items.
The truth is you don’t need a specifically designed “contouring make-up” for proper contouring of the face all you need is a make-up that is a shade darker and a shade lighter than the make-up you use for your foundation. It’s just that simple.
What Kind of Foundation Works Best
You can use any foundation formula for your contouring make-up, and if you have a brand and type that you absolutely cannot do without, then by all means stick with what you love. It will make it easier for you to master the contouring application techniques if you feel comfortable with the medium with which you are working.
However, it’s my opinion that the newer “mineral powder” make-up formulas are ideal for use as contouring make-up – even if you prefer to use a liquid or cream foundation. In fact using a powder make-up for contouring over a moister foundation application can actually work well for many skin types. Just remember that the goal is ultimately to create very blended looks. This won’t be possible if there’s too much moisture, so apply your foundation in smooth, thin, even coats and blend it in well.
How to Know what’s Right
In order to choose the right colors, it’s going to be necessary to go where you can “test” the make-up. Unless you are very familiar with the whole range of shades for the make-up your are working with, or you have loads of money to spend, the test is best.
This testing is doubly important if you are going to use a different formula of make-up to the kind you use as a foundation. If you plan to use the mineral powder formula and you regularly use liquid foundation, it will help you to get a feel for the way the minerals are applied and how they blend.
Find your base shade, then look at the shades one step lighter and one step darker than your base shade. Remember that your base shade should apply to the skin and become invisible. If you can see where the make-up is applied because it is lighter or darker than the skin around it, then it’s not appropriate and you need to shift to the next shade.
Once you have the proper shade for your base color, look at the shades next to it on either side. Select one shade lighter and one darker and apply them next to the test of the color that matches your skin tone. The difference between them should be subtle, but apparent when side by side. You’ll blend out the demarcation lines when you apply the contouring. In some cases, you may need to go to the shades two steps from the one you use as a base if the transition between the shades is very minute.
Once you’ve chosen the contouring colors for use with your foundation, you’re ready to master the contouring basics.
Basics of Contouring
The entire concept behind contouring is the theory of the interplay of light and dark to create depth and perspective in drawn and painted shapes in artwork. Just as an artist can take a plain, white, flat piece of paper and through the use of lighter and darker colors and shading can create an image that looks three-dimensional (even though it is still only a flat surface).
Once you apply your foundation and allow it the proper amount of time to set (using translucent powder as appropriate), you can begin trying out your contouring techniques. If there is a feature you want to enhance, such as the cheeks, apply the darker contouring shade in the hollow of the cheeks by puckering your lips and dabbing the color on the underside of the upper curve of the indention. Then apply the lighter shade lightly to the top of the cheek bone in the same manner. Afterward, use a blending brush to gently smooth away any sign of demarcation.
One of the more unique ways that women accentuate their eyes is through the use of prosthetic eyelashes or false eyelashes. Both terms actually refer to the same thing in basic principle, although the term “prosthetic lashes” is most often in reference to lashes made using natural hair fiber to give an organic appearance.
So, for the sake of simplicity, we’ll just use “False Lashes” as a catch-all and discuss the various types and their uses and differences. There are three main categories of “False Lashes”: Traditional, Individual, and Fashion.
Traditional False Lashes:
Traditional False Lashes are usually synthetic (and sometimes natural) fiber lashes that are affixed to a thin strip to keep them together. The exact construction of the false lashes varies depending on the quality and price of the lashes. You may find some false lashes that are made using small rectangles of glossy nylon that are curved and then cut into strips, leaving a thin portion on one end to hold the lashes together. When the intact end of the lashes is bent to follow the curve of the eyelid, the fronds flare outward and create the look of long, shiny lashes.
Higher quality false lashes may have separate fiber “hairs” attached to a strip or weft like a miniscule and thin wig for the eyelids. The finest quality and most expensive lashes are usually made of human hair and are attached to a transparent weft to make them appear natural when affixed to the eyelid.
Traditional false lashes are affixed to the lids of the eye using a small amount of adhesive. The adhesive is generally very liquid and must be allowed to set and become tacky before it can be placed on the lid. Placement can be tricky and the adhesive must be allowed to fully dry before you can do any additional styling and manipulation.
Individual False Lashes:
Individual False Lashes are made using two to three “lashes” in a cluster that are then affixed to the base of the natural lashes with a small dot of adhesive. These are usually natural-looking fibers and are versatile in their use. You can use them to fill-out sparse lashes, or enhance parts of the lash area as desired. It all depends on how many lashes you add to the look.
Like traditional false lashes, individual lashes are affixed using adhesive, which is dabbed onto the end of the lashes, allowed to set and is then connected to the base of the natural lashes on the eyelids. The ability to create very natural looking lashes when using this type of false lash makes them a favorite among professional make-up artists.
Fashion (False) Lashes:
Fashion Lashes are often just a different variety of the traditional or individual style of false lash. The look may be somewhat “normal” in that is resembles a lash shape, except that the color may be vivid pink, or electric blue, even white. There are fashion lashes that are metallic foil and sparkle, or which have rhinestones affixed to them at various points along the shafts, or on the tips.
The key thing about fashion lashes is that they are used to create a fantasy, or artistic look. I’ve seen make-up looks that use feathers to adorn the lashes to give the impression of a bird or otherwise exotic creature. I’ve even seen the eye(s) transformed into a flower, through the use of flower petals around the eye as false lashes. With Fashion Lashes, the limit is your imagination.
While any cosmetic product can be prone to misuse if an individual is ill-informed, blusher is often the most obviously misused. You can probably call to memory lots of instances where women you’ve met have appeared overly made-up or clownish because of large swaths of color on their cheeks. Or sometimes, it’s colorful splashes just below the eyes and other times in curves that touch the corners of the mouth. This is largely due to two factors: the confusion between the purposes of blusher and contouring make-up, and improper color choices for these products.
The category of cosmetics commonly referred to as blusher often includes contouring make-up in addition to the traditional cheek color. While these products are used in the same areas of the face and are applied in the same manner, it would be helpful to think of them as separate products. They do serve different purposes after all.
Differentiating Blusher from Contour
True blusher is intended to help women recreate the light flush of color on the cheeks that occurs naturally in young women. This effect has been desirable for centuries and has its origins in the idea that the blush response is a sign of youth and innocence. Therefore, a woman whose cheeks were flushed with color would be young – and virginal – and more appealing to the opposite sex. It’s a fairly misogynistic ideal, and has been downplayed over the decades since the emergence of women’s empowerment movements. Today, it is seen typically as just another facet of cosmetics.
Its often-confused counterpart is contour make-up. The primary difference in the appearance of contouring make-up versus blusher is in the color of each. While blusher is colorful – usually pinkish, reddish, or peachy in tone – contouring make-up is neutral-toned and intended to blend in with the foundation base of cosmetic application. A good contouring make-up will be just slightly darker than the foundation base used.
This is because the purpose for contouring make-up is to adapt the appearance of the face’s shape by adding shading and minimizing the appearance of undesired traits. Contouring make-up can be used to minimize double chins, make the jaws appear more defined, give definition to the cheekbones, slim the appearance of the nose, and even minimize the prominence of the forehead.
Using Blusher versus Contour
Most blusher and contour products come as compressed powder and are applied using a brush. This provides excellent control in application and a soft-edged finish. The key to proper usage, however, rests in remembering the purpose for the products.
Let’s start with blusher. Blusher should be applied across the tops of the cheeks, primarily. To apply blusher, simply smile at yourself in a mirror and lightly brush the blusher powder across the “apples” of your cheeks to give them a hint of color. Be careful to keep this color effect subtle, especially in the daytime. You can always go for a heavier application at night (or use a darker shade of color) but in the brighter, broad-spectrum light make-up can be more-easily seen, which isn’t what you want.
The goal is to create a soft “glow” of color, as though you’ve shone a colored light onto the skin. Or, specifically, to create the look you would naturally have if the blood had rushed to your cheeks. In decades past, young women who weren’t allowed to “paint their faces” would often pinch their cheeks or lightly slap themselves to redden their faces a touch and give the blushed impression.
Contouring make-up is different in spite of the fact that it looks so similar to blusher. Contouring make-up is typically available in neutral shades and looks a good deal like pressed-powder foundation. In fact, some pressed-powder foundation (pancake make-up) can be used in place of contour make-up is you are intending to cover larger areas, or if you want to make matching the tone of your cosmetics easier. (You simply purchase your base foundation color and then select a second in a shade or two darker for contouring.)
Apply the contouring make-up in any area you wish to make appear recessed. Because the color is darker than the foundation, the result is that the area will look farther back from the foreground. Typical areas where contouring make-up is used is the area below the chin (the upper neck, sometimes called “the wattle”) where aging and weight can result in looser, or sagging skin, below the cheeks to make the face look slimmer, or along the sides of the forehead to make the forehead appear narrower or the eyes appear broader.
Just remember that you don’t want the effect to appear obvious. As with all cosmetics, proper application means that the individual appears not to be wearing make-up at all. You can use a heavier application at night, but don’t use a lot of make-up and expect a natural look.
Once you’ve selected your contouring colors as appropriate for your skin tone, it’s time to discuss the possible ways contouring can help you enhance your look, and then we’ll look at some specific application techniques that you can put to good use. Contouring serves a number of purposes in make-up application, and in fact, some of the cosmetics you already use serve similar purposes.
Eye shadow and blusher are primarily used to mimic the subtle arousal responses of a youthful body – the pinking of the cheeks and the darkening of the soft tissue around the eyes – but they also serve to give definition to the eyes and add shape to the cheeks by drawing the focus in those areas. Adding in the specific application of cosmetics that will serve the purpose of helping to enhance and adjust the shape of the face and features only serves to make the other cosmetics work even better.
What Contouring Can Do & How To
Contouring as a general term for the cosmetic application to refine and enhance the features covers three basic jobs: accentuating, minimizing and contouring. These jobs are achieved by the same basic application techniques, but the results are important enough to have their own distinction.
Accentuating
Accentuating your best features is probably the favorite use of contouring for most women. Making the eyes deep and sexy, making the cheekbones stand out and appear dramatic are two of the ways you can accentuate your best features with contouring. With the right combination of shading and highlighting you can create a dramatic visage and make your best features truly the stars of your face.
Minimizing
Sometimes we have features that we don’t want to appear so prominent. Perhaps our face is wide and seems flat or our forehead is too broad, and instead of enhancing these features we want to make them less prominent. Contouring make-up works for this in that you can take the shading and highlighting techniques and refine the shape of the broad features, making them appear smaller.
Contouring
Of course being called contouring make-up it is obvious that contouring would be a legitimate function of the technique. Once you master the techniques of shading and highlighting, you can subtly reshape the face and seemingly sculpt the face into the more pleasing esthetic you envision. Whether it’s a flat cheek, or a jaw that’s too square or too round, or just too much, you can alter the look of the shape and create the look that you want.
Specific Tips and Tricks
For a Flat Nose:
Use a circle of lighter color on the tip of the nose, paired with a slight shading on the underside in order to give a sense of depth and make the nose seem to extend more. Gently blend the lighter color vertically along the nose, but only to soften. Don’t spoil the effect of the lightening of the color on the tip. Blend the shading on the underside of the nose in a horizontal motion.
For Flat Cheeks:
Apply your lighter color in an elongated oval in an angle across the top of the cheekbones and pair it with a slim stripe of shading along the bottom edge of the cheekbone. This makes the cheeks appear prominent and gives depth to the face. Blend the colors by gently brushing the shading in a downward motion over the cheeks to diffuse the lower edge, and just burnish the ovals of lighter color to soften the edges.
To Reshape the Jaw Line:
Whether your problem is that your jaw is too square, too round, or you have a wattle or double chin, you can create the shape you desire by applying your shading color first along the underside of the jaw line and carefully add more shading to make the shape into which you want to transform your jaw. After placing the darker color as desired, apply an oval of lighter color on the chin.
Blend the underside of the jaw downward on the neck to fade the color and blend it into the neck, and use brushstrokes in the same direction as the curve you created at the jaw line in order to soften and blend the shading in that area. For the lighter color you applied on the cheek, use your brush and gently blend outward from the chin to reinforce the line of the jaw as you created it, and to make the new jaw line appear to come forward.
For a Wide Forehead:
Apply your lighter color in a rounded triangle shape in the center of the forehead, and use your shading color at the temples and upward toward the hairline on each side of the brows. Gently blend the shading upward and toward the center of the forehead, while lightly brushing the center lighter color to soften its edges. This will make the forehead appear to become narrower and extend slightly forward.
For a Wide Face:
Many women have a wide face at or near the eye region and upper cheeks. By applying the shading color you’ve chosen at the sides of the face from just below the brow to the cheeks and blending it in a softly curved line, and pairing it with the lighter color applied in sweeps just along the tops of the cheeks and blended to soften them, you can bring in the width of the face and bring forward the cheeks, giving depth to the eyes in the process.
Shaping and Defining the Eye Area:
Due to ethnic and other genetic factors, some women have shallower natural contours around their eyes. In some cases, this can be significant enough to make the face appear flat. To enhance eyes that are insufficiently contoured (or to enhance the contours already present) use your shading color and start at the outer corner of the eyes and create a curved shadow from the outside of the upper lid and following it along the crease of the eyelid. (In some cases of shallow eye sockets you may have to actually create the shape of the lid). Add additional vertical lines of shading along either side of the nose from the inner ends of the brows and extending downward to just past the eyes.
Pair these applications with lighter color along the underside of the brows, vertically along the bridge of the nose and in dots on the center of the eyelids. Use your blending brush gently to just remove any clear edges to the contouring make-up. This should give your eyes a depth and drama that you were otherwise lacking.
So, as you can see, contouring is a simple concept to learn that can take some effort and practice to master. However, the results of getting these techniques down are clear, and will allow you to create more dramatic and pleasing make-up looks for yourself and your friends with special needs.
Choosing the right foundation makeup is often a daunting task, since properly matching the skin tone can be tricky for many women. However, thanks to modern cosmetic chemistry, there are solutions for this problem, and even the most “hard to match” skin tones can be blended into a smooth, even complexion. But as a woman gets older, there are some things that need to be addressed to preserve or present a more-youthful appearance.
It should be noted that the common “problems” of aging skin all work together to make the skin look older, but we need to identify the separate effects as they often require different focus ingredients. The common changes in aging skin present specific problems when it comes to cosmetic choices. Here are some of the common problems, and then we’ll talk about some solutions:
Loss of Moisture
Aging skin often loses its ability to retain moisture. This causes the skin to appear dull and may even include dryness and scaly patches in many cases. This gets aggravated by seasonal changes and environmental conditions. The level of moisture in the skin is important, because it helps the skin act as a protective barrier for the body. Good moisture levels also help maintain a youthful, dewy appearance.
Solution & How To:
Obviously, you want a foundation makeup that will help to provide and replenish the moisture your aging skin is lacking. Just don’t be seduced by oil-based foundations. These are great for protecting the skin in times when the weather or environment is likely to strip the skin and make it even drier, but you need a foundation that has hydrating properties to help restore what age is taking away. If you have a difficult time finding something suitable, remember that you can always use a two-stage approach. Find a great moisturizing cream and use it under your foundation.
Also, be sure to use a moisturizer even when you aren’t planning to wear foundation (after makeup removal, at night, etc.). Finally, remember water. Good hydration starts from within. Medical professionals recommend that the average person drinks 8 glasses of water each day, if you work out or engage in activities where you perspire a lot, you should drink even more. Here’s an easy way to figure how much water you should aim for: Take your weight in pounds and divide by 2. This is how many ounces of water you should target in a given day. If you are an “active person” who exercises a lot or works in a strenuous profession, you can increase that amount by another 50%. (For example: Paula weighs 120 pounds, and works as a secretary, but rides her bicycle for an hour many evenings. At her weight she should normally drink at least 60 ounces of water each day, and could drink as much 90 ounces of water to compensate on the days she rides her bike.) Given that the average size of a bottle of water is 16.9 ounces, this is equivalent to 3.5 or 5.3 bottles of water each day.
Loss of Resilience
Another thing lost by aging skin is the collagen and elastin that are what gives the skin its ability to “bounce back” when pulled and pushed. As these components of the skin break down, the skin’s texture becomes thinner, and the skin starts to sag in places where it previously appeared taut and plumped. The effects of this are usually first noted in the areas of the face containing concentrations of “soft tissue” – such as under and around the eyes, and below the jaw and in the cheeks.
Solution & How To:
According to dermatologists, trying to replace collagen and elastin with topical treatments is ineffective. The molecules of collagen and elastin are too large to pass through the epidermis. However, you SHOULD look for foundations and skin care treatments that use ingredients which help to stimulate dermal activity. Among these are Vitamins C & E, Alpha-hydroxy acids, lycopene, green tea, and coenzyme Q10, which help to eliminate free radicals which attack the collagen and elastin, and help increase the skin’s collagen production. Many cosmetic manufacturers are becoming increasingly aware of the benefits of these ingredients and are now including them into their foundation formulas to help women keep the skin healthy and young-looking longer.
Formation of Wrinkles
Another “common problem” of aging skin is one that many women aren’t readily aware of – a breakdown of fat cells in the skin. Below the outer layers of the skin is a layer of fat cells that act as a cushion and moisture/nutrient source for the skin. While the aging process robs the skin of its ability to retain moisture, and of its resiliency, it also results in the breakdown of these fat cells. The three problems act together and reinforce each other in tandem. As the moisture and resilience of the skin begins to decline, and the substance of the skin’s layer grows thinner, fine lines, and even deeper wrinkles begin to form.
Solution & How To:
Here’s where the more aesthetic choices come into play in selecting a foundation cosmetic. While the ingredients in your foundation can help to slow and prevent the deterioration of the skin caused by aging, most women are looking for something that will help them to “look younger” now. To that end, there are some simple things to look out for, and chief among them is a matte finish to the look.
You want the foundation to leave the skin looking matte, not glossy or oily. When the skin is shiny, all those little wrinkles and creases in the skin are accentuated by the glinting of lights reflecting off the oily surface. As a result, you can actually look older when you wear certain makeup brands that tout a “dewy” look. When using a liquid, cream or paste foundation, always opt for one with a matte finish, which gives a flat finish and minimizes the look of the lines and wrinkles you may have.
If you should have a need for a foundation that doesn’t offer a matte finish in order to provide for some other need of your skin (extra moisture, or antioxidants for collagen and elastin replenishment) be sure to use a finishing powder and keep it with you to “touch up” your look and control shine throughout the evening.
Extra Note:
One of the most popular cosmetic formulations of the modern age – Mineral Makeup – is actually an ideal choice for aging skin. It offers what some may consider the best of all possible worlds. You can use your moisturizing treatments and antioxidant/enzymatic creams as a base for your skin care, and simply apply your mineral powder makeup over them. The greatest immediate benefit of the mineral makeup for aging skin is that it leaves an “airbrushed” finish. The skin appears soft and smooth and has a youthful glow.
This is largely due to the most common ingredients in mineral cosmetics, which are:
• Titanium Oxide – which is a natural sunscreen
• Zinc Oxide – also a natural sunscreen and anti-inflammatory
• Kaolin Clay – which absorbs fat from the skin, refines the pores and prevents
break-outs
• Serecite: which reflects light and reduces the appearance of pores, lines and
wrinkles
Regardless of what you ultimately choose for your foundation use, you can be sure that you are doing your best to combat the signs of aging, and to keep your skin looking as youthful as possible if you pay closer attention to the ingredients in your products.
Don’t forget the other key factor in healthy, youthful skin: your diet. Antioxidants are great additions to your cosmetic regimen, but they work even better in your diet. A well-balanced diet, high in protein and anti-oxidant fruits and vegetables – as well as a vitamin supplement appropriate to your age category – can make a world of difference in how you feel and especially how you look.
While the use of foundation make-up is pretty straightforward, some women have a difficult time achieving an application that looks natural. They often select shades of foundation make-up that are in a tone that they “want” to have rather than trying to carefully blend with their real skin color. Some think that by going slightly darker than their natural shade they can create a “tanned” appearance or cover up minor discolorations or blemishes.
There is also the matter of selecting the right foundation formulation for your skin. This means choosing a type of foundation coverage that will work with oily, dry or normal skin. The goal is to help it look healthy and soft and create an even canvas from which to form your make-up look. Let’s talk about these options in formula and who they work best for.
Foundation Formulae:
Liquid or Cream Foundations include many of the formulas you may have used for years. It also includes things like tinted moisturizers. Liquid and cream foundations are perfect for those who have problems with dry skin, or who need to keep their skin hydrated and protect against wind damage and chapping. For best results, invest in disposable cosmetic sponges so that you can apply the foundation evenly with a dabbing motion and avoid streaking the make-up during application.
Pressed Powder or Liquid-to-Powder Foundations are generally compact and easy to carry with you for touch ups throughout the day when you need them, and they have the benefit of leaving a matte, powdery finish. In the case of liquid-to-powder formulas, the application tends to be smooth and more even which is a benefit. These are good for those with normal skin but who want a matte finish in order to mask signs of aging. The Pressed Powder formulas are ideal for oily skin types.
Whipped and Mousse-type Foundation Make-Up is fairly new to the marketplace and is meant to help bridge the needs of several skin types. The thicker formulas are meant to sit on the surface of the skin and smooth-out specific skin problems, such as large pores, and fine lines and wrinkles. Many of these can help to mask the appearance of acne scars and pockmarks in the face.
Mineral Make-up and Powder Foundation are the perfect choices for those who have oily or problem skin. They go on light with an adjustable level of coverage – from sheer to more opaque – enabling the wearer to adjust the amount of coverage to suit the individual need. These foundations are terrific to help keep oily skin looking matte, being more hypoallergenic and noncomedogenic and are truly effective at making the skin look younger by hiding the fine lines and wrinkles common in an aging face.
Matching the Skin Tone:
When you are looking for foundation coverage, you want a make-up that once it is applied is virtually invisible on the skin. If you can see the difference between the color of your skin and the make-up you just applied, so will everyone else. And it won’t look natural.
The only foundation product you want to have that is NOT an exact match for your skin tone is concealer. Your concealer should be slightly lighter in color than your skin tone since it is designed to counter the darker appearance of blemishes and other skin discolorations and be rebalanced by your regular foundation.
If for some reason you don’t feel you can get a good match on your face due to discolorations, etc. feel free to use your neck, forearm, or any other area where you can get an accurate skin reading.
Dealing with Specific Problems:
The two most common problems women want to combat using foundation is discolorations and/or blemishes and marks. Discolorations, commonly freckles, are generally lighter in color though usually significantly darker than the normal level of the skin tone. It’s important to remember that the object isn’t to cover-up the freckles, but to make them (or any discoloration) appear less prominent. If you attempt to completely obscure the appearance of freckles, you’re going to end up with a very unnatural look.
Simply apply your foundation over the face as you would normally, using the tools appropriate to the specific formulation of foundation (sponges, brushes, etc.). The application should be somewhat sheer, as you don’t want to look as though you’ve “painted” on your face. It is okay that your freckles are still visible after the cosmetic is applied, they should, however, be less prominent.
The other major consideration when using foundation is to cover and camouflage blemishes and marks such as acne and moles. These tend to be darker and harder to “blend” into the background with foundation alone. This is where concealer comes in to play. Concealer, being lighter than foundation in color, will help to counter the darkness of the blemish and is subsequently blended away by the foundation.
Apply concealer sparingly in small daubs to cover only the dark marks of the blemishes or spots. If you need to cover larger areas of darkness, use a stippling (dotting) effect and apply the foundation over the concealer gently to blend in the color without revealing the blemishes again.
If the coverage results seem lacking to you after you’ve used the foundation, you can add an additional translucency by using a finishing powder. This will also enforce a matte finish of the foundation, regardless of the formulation used.
The one area of women’s cosmetics that has and hasn’t changed dramatically is lip color. It hasn’t changed in that today, as in eras past, the colors available are many and varied and can be as vibrant or as subdued as you would want. It HAS changed, though, in the areas of formulation. In ages past, lipstick application took precision and repeated touch-ups to keep your mouth looking perfect.
The purpose of lip color is to mimic the blush response in the face and provide the impression of youthfulness. At least, this is the origin of using lip color. You see, when a person blushes, the blood-flow increases to the face, and the soft spongy tissue of the lips – which is translucent – grows darker from the blood seen through the skin of the lips. Lipstick is meant to mimic this response so that the person appears younger and more innocent, and thereby more appealing.
These days, lipsticks come in three main categories – lipstick, lip stain, and lip gloss. Of course there are ancillary products: lip balms, lip liners, lip filler, and plumping formulas. These all serve specific purposes and will be discussed in turn. But for the time being let’s look at the main categories of lip color and the needs they fulfill:
Lipstick
This is probably the product that comes to mind whenever most people think of lip color. Generally, it’s found as a wax-based “stick” that is applied to the lip surface the way one would use a crayon. Its shape is generally intended to make applying the product easier, though it can often wear down or become distorted by heat and other factors. (My mom was forever finding pools of waxy color in the bottoms of her purses or on car upholstery from leaving her lipsticks in the hot car while shopping or visiting away from home.
Lipstick’s specific formula is designed to serve two purposes: moisturize & protect the lips and add enhancing color to the lips. The original formulas of lipstick used things like wax and whale blubber to accomplish this, and modern formulas have developed all-natural and animal-friendly versions. Other lipstick formulas were more of a cream or paste that is dispensed by a sponge-tipped or brush-tipped wand applicator to give an easily-applied, smooth finish. The benefits of this formula are that the color is – generally - more-evenly applied, while the finish is typically shinier and gives a wetter look.
The drawback to these more liquid lipsticks is that they tended to wear off more easily. Since this means more-frequent re-applying, it also means more cost in the long-term because the product gets used up faster. In spite of this, the liquid/creamy lip color products are still very popular because of the silky, smooth, and light feel.
There are also long-wear versions of lipsticks, that usually come with a “sealant” product to try to lock the lipstick in place – either by creating a barrier to prevent the lipstick from rubbing off when eating, drinking, kissing or talking, or by solidifying the texture of the lipstick in order to make it harder to wear off. These generally get mixed reviews – some like the long-wear aspect enough to put up with what they deem are “minor” inconveniences in texture and feel, while others think the whole process is too unwieldy and the feel is too inhibiting. They deem it easier to simply re-apply their normal lipstick.
Lip Stain
The second category of lip color is generally called “lip stain”. These products can be just as viscous as the creamier lipstick formulas or they may simply appear like darkly-colored water. The purpose of lip stain is in the name. They are simply designed to impart color to the skin of the lips. As the name implies, they do in fact, stain the skin, and therefore offer long-lasting color. The longevity of the color imparted by lip stain is significantly greater than that of regular lip color.
Many women love lip stains for the simple reason that they allow you to have long lasting color, and allow you to enjoy normal activities without having to fear losing the color or re-apply to keep it looking fresh (at least, not as often). They also love the fact these products are generally much lighter on the lips and typically feel most like wearing nothing at all. Even the heavier formulas are generally no heavier than lip gloss.
The drawback to lip stains is that they don’t afford the wearer the kind of protection and moisturizing that many traditional lipsticks and glosses offer. In fact, some alcohol-based lip stains can leave the lips feeling dry and tacky. They also don’t offer the kind of “smoothing” and “filling” that some lipstick offers. If your lips tend to be heavily textured with grooves and lines (a not-uncommon occurrence) lip stains won’t usually leave the surface looking smooth the way many lipsticks can.
Because of this, lip stains are generally preferred by those with smoother, plumper lips, or else are paired with a secondary product like a clear or lightly-tinted gloss to add shine, smoothness and a plumper appearance to the lips.
Lip Gloss
Lip Glosses are usually thick liquids or gels that have a high level of emollient and moisturizing agents and are designed specifically to give the lips a glossy, wet look. Most lip glosses are clear, though many can be found that are tinted, flavored and fragranced. In fact, among most tinted lip glosses, the color is just dark enough to impart a very little color to the lips along with the high level of shine.
Lip gloss is great for giving the lips a shiny, plumped look. However, they can be at cross purposes when used on thin, or heavily-wrinkled and lined lips. In these cases, the use of lip gloss can make the lines and wrinkles appear more pronounced.
Other Lip Products
Lip Balms are usually colorless, or lightly-tinted wax-based emollients that are designed protect the lips against exposure to sun, wind and other environmental effects. Often seen advertised in Fall and Winter months, lip balms are nothing more or less than good lip care. In practical use, lip balms are good for giving the lips a smooth finish, and can be paired with lip gloss when a high-shine effect is sought (with a hint of color), and can be used in place of lip filler in a pinch (though it doesn’t work quite as well with some other lip products).
Lip Liners are lip color products that are intended to give definition to the shape of the lips. Lip liner can be found as a slim crayon or pencil of wax-based color in a range of shades slightly darker than the normal lip color palette. In rare cases, you may find a liquid lip liner, applied with a brush tipped wand applicator. Lip liner is intended to be applied to the perimeter of the lips (the vermilion) and provide a border for the lip color. Most lip liner is meant to help prevent “bleed” of the lip color in lips that are rimmed by fine lines and wrinkles.
Lip Filler is a specialized product that often appears like a colorless lipstick. Other lip filler products use a neutral color and their primary purpose is to fill-in the lines and ridges that may be present on the lips, leaving a smooth canvas upon which to apply your lip color. It can also help to prevent lip color bleed in older women with many fine lines and wrinkles around the mouth.
Lip Plumpers are usually found as a two stage product containing a serum that is intended to stimulate the lip’s tissues and cause them to plump and appear fuller. The second stage is generally a glossy color that is then used to give the tint that is desired and add shine to enhance the plumped appearance. There are several of these products on the markets and most have gotten mixed reviews. It is certain that some work better than others, so this is a case where you should do your homework. If you are planning to use a lip plumping product, research them online and check customer reviews on different retailing sites. You’ll be happy to have spent the time instead of the money if you find the product you were planning to buy is considered a waste of money by the majority of its purchasers.
Fine Lines and Wrinkles (mild to moderate)
When dealing with lips that have a few to medium-levels of fine lines and wrinkles, you can use a limp pluper product – if you’ve found one that works for you – or you can use a lip filler along with a lip color. Be sure to line the lips carefully, then apply your lip filler. Your top coat will be your lip color product. In these cases, I recommend using a satin finish product so that you can have some shine without risk of enhancing the lines and making the lips look older.
Severe Lines and Wrinkles
When the lines and wrinkles are heavier than average, you want to use your lip filler first and then apply the lip liner carefully. Once these steps are complete, apply your lip color using a matte formula product. The lack of gloss will help the lines and wrinkles fade beneath the surface of the color and give a more youthful look to the mouth.
Thin Lips
With thin lips, the secret is to apply your lip liner carefully along the outer edge of the lips in order to make them appear larger. Next apply a dual colored application of lip color in the same tone but one shade lighter than the other. Use the darker tone on the exterior of the lip and then apply the lighter shade to the interior body of the lips (both shades should still be lighter than the shade of your lip liner). This will make the lips look fuller and enhance the overall appearance of the mouth. If you have only one lip that seems thin, you can use this technique on the lip that needs it.
Thick Lips
In today’s society and with today’s attitudes there is almost no such thing as lips that are too thick. However, balance in the face is important and thick lips can sometimes be overpowering and you need to tone them down a touch. The trick is to apply your lip liner just inside the perimeter of the lips. Follow this with a lip color in a satin finish that closely matches the shade of your lip liner. Keeping the liner and color as close as possible will help to make the lips appear thinner.
As with most cosmetics, the key to making your lips look their best is to practice. Some women won’t feel the need for more than a simple tube of lip color, but when you want to give your look a little punch, take the time to try out some of the different products meant to help you enhance your lips’ appearance. You may find a more kissable you.
When it comes to enhancing the eyes through the use of cosmetics, you really can’t overlook the importance of mascara and eyeliner. These two simple cosmetics provide so much impact on the overall look of the face that trying to make a go of it without them is often a losing battle. Let’s be honest, in the most pared-down, minimalist looks, the three “must-have” items are generally tinted moisturizer, mascara and lipstick, and personally, I know more women who are willing to part with their moisturizer and lipstick than are willing to part with mascara. Since the eyes are the windows of the soul (poetically speaking) and are a key focus in the basics of facial recognition (scientifically speaking) how they are presented is extremely important. These are features that come with their own enhancement elements (lashes) and are centered in a nesting of musculature that makes them almost infinitely expressive. Because of this, it’s important to use care when enhancing them with cosmetics. Over-application can really hinder the desired result. So, let’s look at these two eye-enhancing cosmetics and at the best uses of them to make the eyes look their best: Mascara: With mascara you find products that offer a surprisingly wide range of promises. Originally, mascaras were little more than temporary color for the lashes. They darkened the lashes (to black) making them stand out more and subsequently defining the eyes. However, today’s mascaras are designed to help maximize the lashes and to combat the common complaints many women have about their lashes. There are mascaras that thicken each lash (for those women who feel their lashes are too fine, or are too sparse), and there are mascaras that add length for those who feel their lashes are too short. There are also mascaras that are not the traditional “black” or “dark brown” these days. There have been “fashion colored” mascaras for some time which have been popular off and on in certain circles and eras. These have ranged from white mascaras to the shades that match or coordinate with various eye shadow shades in “fashion colors”. While not necessarily appropriate for the supermarket or the PTA, these looks made an impact both for the wearers specifically and in general in the eras in which they were worn. Today we have colored mascaras designed to enhance the eye color of the individual whether it’s blue, green, aqua or brown. This is done by including metallic tones in the color of the mascara which refracts colors of light to brighten and compliment the color of the iris (the colored portion of the eye). The specific metallic tone depends on the color the mascara is meant to enhance, so you have to choose the formula for your eye color, but these choices are simple and clearly outlined.
Choosing Mascara for Maximum Impact: When it comes to choosing your mascara and applying it for maximum effect there are some things to consider: For instance, what is your most significant need from mascara? Are you someone whose lashes are long and lush, but blonde and therefore nearly translucent? Do you think your lashes are too thin or sparse? Do you wish your lashes were longer and brushed against your brows and cheeks when you batted them? The improvement you wish to create in the lashes determines the specific product you are going to choose. We won’t go into specific brands and their respective formulas here, both because we generally tend to avoid brand/product endorsement, and because there are just too many different brands out there. Suffice it to say that you should make your choices based on your specific needs and not simply select a brand/product at random. If your eyes are ringed with a lush fringe of thick, stubby lashes, you don’t really want mascara whose primary purpose is to thicken the lash. Instead, you want one that will help to add length and will extend the lashes. And if you have long lashes, but feel that they’re too sparse or finely-textured (thin), a thickening mascara will give you the improvement you seek.
Simply put, you want the right tool for the job, and once you’ve selected the mascara that is appropriate to what you need, it becomes time to look at the ways you can apply mascara for maximum impact. {NOTE: There’s no rule that says you have to restrict yourself to only ONE kind of mascara. In many cases there are looks that can be created by using a “lengthening” mascara followed by a thickening mascara to create a DRAMATIC change in the look of your eyes.} However, first let’s look at mascara’s oft-forgotten companion, eyeliner. Eyeliner: This is a cosmetic that many women fear, and as a result they ignore the benefits that it can provide in creating a dramatic look in the eyes. Just the thought of trying to “draw” lines so close to their eyeball can make some women panic and therefore results in unsuccessful application attempts. However, when applied properly, eyeliner can not only be dramatic, but can provide very subtle enhancement. The way to master eyeliner is simple: Practice. Get a basic eye pencil and some make-up remover, then practice applying and removing the eyeliner from your eyes. Soon enough, you’ll be ready to expand your eyeliner types and will be comfortable experimenting with a number of looks. Eyeliner comes in two forms typically – liquid and pencil/crayon type. The liquid formula can have an applicator wand with a tapered tip or be a pen-style applicator with a reservoir and flexible nib. Pencil or crayon style eyeliners are generally wax-based and either encased in wood and sharpened as a pencil would be, or housed in a dispenser tube that allows an adjustable amount to be extended from the tip of the apparatus – similar to a lipstick tube, but usually the size of a small pen. Typically, the pencil-type eyeliners are more stable in varied climates (heat, humidity, rainy weather) but often need more effort for a bold or heavy line. On the other hand, while liquid-type eyeliners will offer clean, bold lines, they can be easily smudged, and may be prone to run. Be sure if you choose a liquid-liner that you select a moisture-resistant or water-proof formula.
Advanced Application Techniques: Okay, you’ve got your mascara of choice and are ready to make a change; the same with your eyeliner. So let’s look at a couple of application techniques that are meant to enhance the look of the eyes. Here’s a look at common issues that proper mascara and eyeliner application techniques can help with. For Pale Lashes: Pale lashes are a common complaint among individuals with fair skin and lighter colored hair. Often blondes and some redheads will note that their eyelashes appear lighter in color than that of their darker-haired friends. Since lashes are hair and are created by the body in the same ways as other hair fibers, they will grow according to their genetic coding and be whatever color the DNA indicates they should be. Of course, knowing that it’s not abnormal doesn’t make it any easier to accept. Fortunately, this is where mascara and eyeliner can come in most handily. Obviously, mascara works to add color to the pale lashes. Depending on secondary needs, you can choose a thickening or lengthening mascara as well to add dimension or length as desired. Eyeliner serves the purpose of helping define the shape of the eye and also helps to make the lashes appear thicker by making them appear denser at the base of the lash.
For Thin Lashes For some women the complaint is simply that the eyelashes seem to be “thin” – either sparse or just skinny when looked at individually. The result is that they don’t define the eyes very well. Again, this is usually a matter of genetics, but if you develop loss of lashes in spots or if the lashes seem to fall out to a significant degree, you should consult with your doctor to make sure it’s not something to be concerned over. Dealing with thin lashes using mascara is a matter of selecting a mascara that is designed to thicken (add to the diameter) of the lash. By thickening the diameter of each individual lash, such mascara makes the lashes appear thicker as a whole and there appears to be more lashes, where they might otherwise appear sparse. Eyeliner can further enhance the appearance of the lashes by using a thick line at the base of the lashes in order to give the illusion that the lashes are denser at the base. For Short Lashes It may seem that women who have eyelashes that they consider to be “short” have little recourse to resolve the issue (unless they want to learn to use false eyelashes and similar prosthetics). These women look with envy on their friends who seem to have long, sinewy, spider-like lashes that curl outward and brush seductively along the brow bone and cheeks, while their own lashes barely serve as more than a dense fringe on the edges of the eyelid. However, today’s cosmetic sciences have brought forth many minor miracles in mascara application. One of these minor miracles is mascara that will extend the length of the lashes beyond their normal boundaries. This is achieved using a substance that adheres to the existing lash and builds outward along the length to create a lash extension that is purely cosmetic, and easily washes away. Just be sure you read the packages carefully when selecting these types of mascara that may claim to be “waterproof”. These may require special “removers” or else may only be “water-resistant” and may not stand up to extraordinary circumstances. Extra Tips for Other Circumstances: Small Eyes Mascara, by its very nature helps to make the eyes appear larger, yet careful consideration when applying eyeliner can help make the eyes appear larger still. The key is to apply a thin line of eyeliner as close to the lash line as possible, preserving the edge of the lid unpainted. In most cases this is best accomplished by applying the eyeliner on top of the eyelashes. Large Eyes Large eyes, or at least eyes that seem too large and prominent can be minimized by using a medium line of eyeliner along the edge of the lid in order to “enclose” the eye. Be careful not to paint the eyeliner onto your eyeball, and be sure to use hypoallergenic cosmetics to minimize the risk of allergic reactions and sensitivities.
Close Eyes Close-set eyes are helped by using the mascara and eyeliner in much the same way as you do your eye shadow – by creating a shaded zone on the outside of the eyes to make them appear to “shift slightly” away from the middle of the face. This is done by applying the mascara a little more heavily to the outer corners of the eyes and by creating a tapered line with eyeliner that is thickest at the outside corners and tapers to a fine line toward the inside of the eye. Wide Eyes For Wide-set eyes, the principles described in the segment above for close-set eyes are simply reversed as far as direction is concerned. Apply your mascara more heavily on the lashes at the inner corners of the eye and make sure your eyeliner tapers toward the outside corners of the eyes. These tips in combination with the shading of eye shadow application, can dramatically rebalance the appearance of the eyes’ position. On a final note, it is EXTREMELY important that you remember NEVER to share your mascara or eyeliner cosmetics with another individual. Even in your own household this kind of cross-contamination is not a good idea. The applicators for these products often come in contact with bodily fluids that can carry germs and bacteria and can transmit them from one person to another. In some cases, an infection spread from one individual can be worse in the person to whom it was transmitted than in the original host. Mascara and eyeliner are two cosmetics it’s OK to be stingy with. “Tell them where you bought it, but make them buy their own.”
